Introduction
As I prepared to leave work yesterday, I checked my Twitter feed and saw the reminder from Sportsman’s Fine Wine and Spirits that a free Bulleit Bourbon tasting was taking place from 5:00 pm to 7:00 pm. I was kind of tired and almost ignored it, but then…I’ve passed that unique flask-shaped bottle with raised lettering many times and wondered about the spirit inside. Why not take a few minutes to see what it’s all about? I’m glad I went, as company founder Tom Bulleit was there talking about bourbon and signing bottles. Not only was he a very entertaining and likable gentleman, but I also got the scoop on some new works in progress by this [currently] single-expression brand!
Tom talks about the Bulleit History
It’s Mr. Bulleit’s Great, Great Grandfather Augustus who is credited with formulating the original Bulleit whiskey recipe. He came to America with his French family in 1805, taking root in New Orleans. In the 1825 to 1830 time frame, he worked his way up to Louisville, Kentucky where he married and ran a couple of taverns. He also started making whiskey, which he sold locally, and would also take barrels back to New Orleans to sell there.
Tom Bulleit mentioned that he DID work at a distillery when he was young (he’s currently 67 years young), but his father was never really involved in the business. Tom went on to be a marine and a successful lawyer. However, he had always dreamed of resurrecting the family whiskey recipe and starting his own business. He said his father wasn’t too keen about the idea, but Tom felt compelled to follow his passion. He founded Bulleit and ran it as a family business until 1997, when they partnered with Seagrams. Diageo bought out most of Seagrams a few years later and Bulleit became their small-batch bourbon. He said that Diageo has been great to work for/with. They can still be very entrepreneurial and independent, but have access to vast resources.
The Bulleit Bourbon recipe
Now, the story goes that the Augustus recipe, after his death in 1860, was passed along in the family, and it was this recipe that Tom used when he founded Bulleit Bourbon in 1987. The current Bulleit recipe calls for 68% corn, 4% malted barley, and 28% rye. This is a significant increase in rye relative to other bourbons. What I found interesting was Tom’s description of the original Augustus recipe. He said it was originally about two thirds rye and one third corn…not technically a bourbon by today’s standards.
So…I guess the “original recipe” thing is a bit of a loose interpretation, with the key being that, as a bourbon, it has a very high rye content. Of course there are other factors involved in the recipe. Apparently they are very specific about how the grains should be grown. They also have a method of filtering the distillate so that they’re only using ethyl alcohol and none of the phenols (something to do with temperature and specific gravity…I took his word for it). This helps give it a very smooth character. They mature the barrels for at least six years, at which point they start checking them for “proper” maturity. The barrels used to make the final product are between six and eight years of age.
Tasting Bulleit
Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey; 45% ABV (90 proof)
Nose: Gentle, with very little direct alcohol influence. Vanilla and some light fresh oak and medium sweetness. Hints of citrus come and go. Palate: Gentle at first, then a very noticeable pepper spice, almost Talisker-like. Turns dry fairly quickly. Finish: The pepper has a medium-long duration, and this is VERY drying on the tongue. More vanilla, and just a touch of smoke in the back of the nostrils.Comments:
I expected the 28% rye content to really give this a pop, but it’s quite gentle. It’s fascinating to experience that pepper and high level of dryness on the tongue, but have the rest of the experience be one of subtle toffee sweetness, vanilla and light oak. Bulleit compares price-wise with Knob Creek and Maker’s Mark. I’m having difficulty organizing their profiles in a linear fashion, though. The Bulleit lies in between the other two in relative sweetness and spiciness, but it’s lighter than either of the other bourbons. That lightness is similar to that of Gentleman Jack Tennessee Whiskey, but unlike the GJ, you can tell this one is whiskey, not flavored water.
My tasting notes are based on the in-store tasting last night, and another dram tonight. I’ll hold off on trying to rate this until I’ve had more experience with it. While I’m not going to give up Island or Islay Scotch for this bourbon, my initial impression is that it is a good value if you can find it for a little over $20. I’ll pull it out when I’m looking for something light, but I still want to get an entertaining tingle on the tongue (both from the dryness and the pepper spice).
Bulleit in cocktails
I can’t really offer much when it comes to bourbon cocktails. I like mine neat or with a few drops of room temperature water. Mr. Bulleit also indicated a preference for drinking whiskey neat or on the rocks. He fully supports everyone’s right to create whatever mixes they see fit, but what truly gives him pleasure is seeing somebody enjoy the profile that they worked so hard to create. He did offer up one particular cocktail recommendation. He said this ONLY works with Bulleit [with a sly smile on his face]:
- A shot of Bulleit Bourbon
- 1.5 – 2 oz tonic
- A squeeze of lemon
That’s it…very simple, but he says it’s great. I’ll have to pull a lemon off of our tree this weekend and give it a try.
Conclusion
It was a pleasure meeting Tom Bulleit, and he was incredibly generous with his time. I had monopolized a bit of that time towards the end of the tasting, and when I apologized, he said no apologies necessary. It was a pleasure to talk bourbon with people who are passionate about whiskey. I believed him. He’s a good salesman, but he also seems very humble, down to earth, and appreciative of his opportunity to follow his passion and share it with others. His bourbon is well crafted, refined, and very drinkable. If you’re scared off by the likes of Knob Creek, don’t be frightened by the “Frontier Whiskey” on the label. I’d think of that as more of a reference to Augustus Bulleit’s travels between Tennessee and New Orleans (with whiskey in tow) than to the character of the bourbon itself.
Oh, and I mentioned at the beginning that I got the scoop on some exciting new products they’re working on. However, when I mentioned that I have a whisk(e)y blog, he asked me to hold off putting anything in writing so that they can have first crack at sharing the news. However, I’m free to blog about it in four months if they haven’t gone public with anything. At least that gives you an idea of the time frame they’re looking at. We’re not talking about something that’s years away from coming to fruition.
nice post!
never had this whisky, but nice signed bottle!
Bulleit did a tasting in Brooklyn this summer and they were serving up those tonic/cocktails. I have to say they were quite good. I’ll probably bring a bottle and ingredients to mix it up when I go on my annual summer rafting trip.
[…] Scotch Hobbyist meets the manager of Bulleit Bourbon and does a tasting. […]
Great post; its always interesting to hear the background to one’s favorite whiskies.
I love this bourbon, specifically for its high rye content. Also, however, for its value. And it gets very wide distribution (in the bars I’ve frequented, anyway), so I’ve been able to turn many people on to it– few of whom haven’t become believers. It’s often available in pint-sized bottles, so it’s portable, too.
And I’m very excited to hear your tease about forthcoming innovations from Bulleit.
GREAT post!! I actually just had a dram of this stuff earlier tonight (right before some Springbank 10yr). Love Bulleit!
This is some good whiskey! A whisk(e)y friend of mine here picked some up – and we drank it in Kentucky. I was very pleased with it.
I didn’t find it as “tame” as you did – I think of this as a pretty spicy bourbon – but my take on it’s “roughness” may be your interpreation of the pepper you mention. I totally get the Talisker reference, too… loads of pepper & spice.
Diageo has also joined the KDA – even though Sazerac (Buffalo Trace & Tom Moore) has left… so I’m guessing that Bulleit – with all the Diageo resources behind it – will be looking to be the 9th big player in Bourbon-land.
Cool that you got to meet him – those personal connections to the spirits really do make them all the more enjoyable! I’m still working on my Elmer T. Lee visit for you – it really influences your take on the whisk(e)y – for the better! I know it’s not “objective” – but given a certain quality level between given spirits, what past that basic assessment IS objective?
28% Rye is a fair shake – but I’m still partial to higher levels (35% of Four Roses – or Elijah Craig’s heavy rye character, for instance). Rye does the same thing for Bourbons that Peating does for Scotch – just adds that extra >oomph< that excites my palate.
Thanks for the comments, guys!
Dodgy – If you like high rye, have you tried Four Roses Single Barrel [Not all Four Roses offerings use the full 35% rye mash bill]?
Tim – I tried the Bulleit next to Maker’s Mark and Knob Creek. The Bulleit lacked the sweeter spices (cinnamon) of the Maker’s, and didn’t seem to have as many hot spices as KC, leaving pepper as the dominant spice. I’ll certainly be spending some more time with the Bulleit. Perhaps when drinking it on its own, more subtle spice variants will stand out to me.
Cheers,
Jeff
I enjoyed your post. I have always wondered about this particular bourbon. I have heard mixed reviews, but will certainly reserve judgment until i buy a bottle.
Thanks Jason.
I’m not going to choose this over something like the William Larue Weller special release, or Jefferson’s Presidential Reserve. For the price, though, I was very pleasantly surprised. It certainly has a place amongst the likes of Knob Creek and Maker’s Mark, offering up a different profile depending on mood/preference.
At the tasting, they were selling it for $19.99. I definitely got my money’s worth.
Jeff, what have been your experiences when tasting the other malts and whiskies(eys) of the world coming from, as you do, an interest chiefly founded on Scotch? Is it like sampling a completely different spirit, for all they are still grain distillates? I’m keen to try some of the Japanese malts, and an experience with Wild Turkey has stoked my interest in American whiskeys, too, but I’m not sure how two and a half years solely devoted to Scotch will allow for a fully objective tasting!
James, your name is getting longer! 🙂
I sampled both bourbon and scotch at the beginning of my whisk(e)y journey and was quickly drawn down the scotch path. The bourbon’s all seemed way too similar. I also wasn’t completely sold on the barrel maturation approach for bourbon. The fresh char seemed to impart an overriding character that didn’t allow other tastes through.
After a year focused on scotch, I tried a couple of other bourbons and found more subtle distinctions between them than I had noticed at the beginning. Now I’m really gaining an interest in American whiskey.
I’ve only tried one Japanese malt. Yamazaki 12. At first, it seemed no different from a Speysider to me. Now, there definitely seems to be a different spice (slightly different wood influence?) in the Yama that i haven’t noticed in any of the scotches I’ve tried. I really like it and can’t wait to try more Japanese malts.
I think your taste buds should be more than ready to handle whiskies of the world. There are such a wide variety of flavors between the different scotch regions, you’re already used to detecting differences. Go for it!
Cheers,
Jeff
I was exited to see what you had written as I have found there is little info that can be deemed even from the Bourbon makers websites regarding flavour, taste, comparisons. I was beginning to think it was just me. What is available here in Aus over the counter is somewhat limited and I am finding all taste the same. Also tastings on bourbons in Aus are few and far between.
My impression is nice and light and very correct about it being tame.
Matt,
Have you checked out straightbourbon.com? The Forums there are a great source of tasting notes and comparisons between bourbons (and other American whiskies).
You mention the choice over there. That’s another thing that has helped kindle additional interest in American whiskey on my part. I have access to just about everything, and at a great price. Might as well take advantage of that!
Oh, BTW…I just left a comment at the DTWC blog for the “Whisky of Choice” post.
Aw, Jeff, you saw through my cynical motives. 🙂 I just thought that a more specific middle name was needed!
Thanks for your thoughts about the whiskies of the world. I’d forgotten that the shear variety of Scottish single malt is a pretty good and broad education into wider spirit sampling. It sort of relates back to that David Stirk article you referred to a few posts ago about the range of flavours offered by the whiskies of Scotland being greater than basically the rest of the alcoholic field. There’s a good spirits shop in the nearest city to me and a Whisky Shop just beyond it so I’ll be giving those a go.
I meant to applaud the thoroughness of your posts in my last comment but I forgot so in it goes here.
going to post a review on that baby soon (many thanks to the one and only Yossi ) . i am not big on Bourbons but hey, i am willing to give that a try!
I know you’re not a big bourbon fan. I wasn’t either, but have really come back around to appreciating them lately. It will be interesting to see if we can convert you into a bourbon fan at some point. 🙂
[…] to pour our drams. He’s been the Master Distiller at Four Roses distillery since 1995. Like Tom Bulleit, he was a very engaging, down-to-earth guy who enjoyed talking about whiskey, and seemed to get a […]
I saw a site that really downgraded this bourbon with several poor reviews, but they didn’t understand, or even know about, the high rye content of the drink. Kinda like attacking a good Cabernet for not being champagne. It’s a different kind of bourbon. I love rye and I love this high rye-content bourbon.
It’s one of the few bottles I keep buying again and again, rather than trying another new brand.
Thanks for the comment, John! Not everybody is going to go for a high rye bourbon, and they’re free to voice their opinions. I do find it funny, though, that Bulleit doesn’t seem to get a lot of love, but Four Roses seems to get almost universal praise.
Given that Bulleit is really a Four Roses bourbon, created from two of their 10 yeast-strain/mashbill combinations, it would be really amusing to see the same recipe bottled under both labels and see how their reviews differ. 🙂
I have turned so many people on to the Bulleit it is crazy, you guys should be paying me a salary, for real, love the Bulleit!